I've discovered that there are actually a lot of different sources on the internet for free patterns. I plan to do another post about those soon. In the mean time, here is one I've found: Kasia 6012 by BurdaStyle. First of all, it's a free download. I can't possibly argue with that. Second, the super cute hip yokes will let me sneak in a little bit of colour into the black and white dress code.
At the moment I'm working on the muslin. After two constructions and 4 or 5 rounds of marking it up, I think I've got it. I'll start by saying I had lovely pictures to go with this posts, and when I came to write I discovered my camera has eaten them... And of course, I'd just finished taking the muslin apart.
I had to size up a bit based on my hip measurement and I knew from the chart I wanted to add about an inch in length. So, I traced the pattern and made those two changes before making my first muslin.
When I was adding hip width, I noticed that the pattern didn't seem to have any real shaping for the waist. I couldn't find any hip point, nor did the pattern appear to narrow. You can see what I mean in their pattern diagrams here. I decided to trust the pattern and assume it was built in somewhere and I just couldn't see it.
It turns out, trusting the pattern was the wrong call. I came out with a muslin that fit fairly well around my hips, but had a solid 6" extra fabric at the waist. Knowing the difference between my waist and hip measurement, that means there is some shaping. However, even if I hadn't added width for the hip I don't think it would have been enough. The other issue I had was the that distance between the waist and the hip (which I found by looking at where the yokes fell) was about an inch too long.
I pinned both of these issues out. I took the inch vertically in the front pieces and back as well as both yokes. For the width, I determined a hip point and then took from the two side seams and center back, fading to nothing at the hip.
This time it was a lot closer. Now that it was sitting properly at my waist, it was pretty easy to see I needed to take out a little bit more. I pinch out another two inches along the side and back seems and am now pretty happy with the fit. I didn't bother adjusting the waistband for the last time. Having taken out some width on them before, creating an awkward seem allowance down the center, I knew that taking any more wouldn't really work.
|I can barely tell which line I want to use...|