Friday, 21 March 2014

Better Fit Friday: Gertie Edition

Hello, and welcome to the first edition of Better Fit Friday!

For the first edition, I'm going to go through the Full Bust Adjustment Method that Gertie outlined in her book, Gertie's New Book for Better Sewing.  In future installments, I'm going to go through the Better Homes and Garden's Sewing Book.

I've cut out quarter scale sloper pieces, from Making Your Own Sewing Patterns (my review), and I'll be preforming all of the adjustments on these small patterns.


New lines in Orange!
The Gertie FBA

Step 1:  Identify the bust point.  This is usually half and inch, to an inch about the tip of the dart.

Step 2:  Draw a line from the waist dart, through the bust point to the arm scythe.  Draw another line from the bust point, through the bust dart.  And a third line across the bodice from the first line.  Your bodice should look like the one to the right.

Step 3:  Cut up the first line, leaving a hinge at the arm scythe.  Cut across the second line leaving a hinge at the bust point.  And cut all the way across your third line.

Step 4:  Tape some paper behind your pattern so that you can fill in the gaps you're about to make.

My lines is in blue.  And a little short...
Step 5:  Now we add the width.  In this example, I'm going to add 1/4 inch.  So, measure over 1/4" (or however much you need to add) from the line through your waist dart, and make a parallel line.

Step 6:  Open your waist dart, from the hinge at the arm scythe, until you are on the line you drew in the last step.  The tip of your bust dart will have shifted over and down.  Tape it down.  Your waist and bust darts will both be larger now.

Step 7:  Shift the other piece of your pattern down until it is level with the section you just moved.

You will need to true your darts, redrawing them so that they still go to the bust point.  And voila!

The finished pattern is to the left.  All of the space we just added is coloured in to make it easier to see.

If you have any questions, leave a comment below, and I'll do my best to clarify. And I hope you enjoyed today's edition of Better Fit Friday!

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