The Woes of Stash Sewing

I finished tracing and cutting out the pattern for Butterick 5605 last night.  I made a muslin and a few more tiny adjustments, adding a bit of width across the back and raising the scoop to cover my bra as well as pinching out a bit of excess in the front neck line.  I started laying out the pieces to cut only to discover that I had nowhere near enough fabric.

The pattern envelope calls for 5 3/8 yards of 45" fabric.  I had already decided not to line the dress with my fashion fabric which would cut down the requirements a little bit.  Unfortunately, it does not cut it down to 3 1/2 yards, which is what I have in my stash.  In fact, three and a half yards is not even enough to cut out all of the skirt pieces... Talk about a fabric hog!

There is one possible way to cut this dress from this fabric, and involves a style sacrifice and a cardinal sin of sewing.  The style sacrifice is pinching out the pleats in the back of the skirt.  I really like that style element, however, if that was all that was required, it was a sacrifice I was willing to make.  The cardinal sin is cutting one piece upside down.  Now, this isn't always a problem.  However, I'm working with a satin, and even though it looks like there isn't a nap to the fabric, I'm certain that once the dress is made up the side back piece would look like a completely different colour of fabric.  I've been there before, and I'm not going to make that mistake again!

And so, back to the drawing board.  Unfortunately, being on the budget of the unemployed, I can't really justify going out to buy new fabric, tempting as it is...  So, that leaves me with a very large piece of jersey.  I sew very little with jersey, and though I do like the print, I'm not sure why I would have felt the need to but four yards (at least) of it for my stash.  However, maybe I should be more thankful, because now I can use it to make a dress.

I'm attempting to drape a pattern that will in the end look something like the dress from Simplicity 1168, but with kimono sleeves and a v-neck rather than the original sweat heart halter.  I'm not hugely fond of draping directly onto my own body, however, difficult times call for difficult measures.  And I need a dress by Saturday!

Planning Ahead and Dreaming Just a Little

So, I've been working away on my Portrait Blouse.  I recently discovered that I've sewn the back on inside out (after I'd tied everything off and of course using French Seams at the shoulders).  Luckily (or unluckily since this is likely how I made the mistake) the fabric looks the same on the right and wrong sides.  So, I'm going to spread the darts and sew them down, like it was an intentional point of visual interest.

In other, more optimistic news, I've been told some of the patterns I'll be getting for Christmas.  I have a lot of extended family, and decided that I would ask most of them for patterns this year.  One of my aunts discovered that she wasn't the only one who was given a list of patterns so called to make sure no one else would get me the same patterns.  Which means I now know some of my presents and I've been excitedly plotting.  They'll likely be familiar from my Patterns of Note posts recently.

I know for example I'm getting New Look 6227.

New Look 6227

Now, all I can imagine is view A, in bright red!  Now luckily, Tilly, from Tilly and the Buttons is currently hosting the giveaway to end all giveaways!  The Stitcher's Dream Christmas Givaway runs until Sunday December 8th, so I would definitely recommend heading over to check it out.

I found Vibrant Cardinal Red Wool Blend Coating at Britex Fabrics and Red and Black Jacquard Print Lining at Minerva Crafts and I think I need both so I have a cape for spring!

Well, good luck everyone!

A Trio of Dresses

Today, I bring you three vintage dress patterns from a wonderful blog I like to follow for inspiration.

Erin over at A Dress A Day has now posted a hundred dresses that she`s made.  (Take a moment and let that sink in.  100 dresses she has made. Anyway...)  She usually accompanies the dress with the pattern she used as well.  Which means I have a small list of patterns she`s shown that I`d somehow like to acquire.

So, today I present to you three of my favorites!

Vogue 9670:

This dress looks super cute, but also pretty casual.  It seems like something I could wear all day while I do whatever errands I need to do, but could also wear to the office.  Erin posted about it first here, but went on to post quite a few more.

Mail Order Pattern 4946:

I certainly couldn`t pull of the seersucker with yoke stripes going the opposite direction from the bodice stripes.  But, that`s exactly what Erin did, which I`d say is suitably impressive.  I think I`d be far more likely to use either a solid and a print, or use the same fabric for the yoke and the dress.

Simplicity 1577:

This dress is adorable.  It`s another dress that I could see being perfect for doing errands in or going out for coffee or lunch.  It`s even got pockets!  Erin had a bit of an obsession with the dress, starting here.  There`s a long list of posts where she`s shown this dress.  I`d be hard pressed to pick a favorite, which I`m taking as a sign that I should make this for myself.

And this concludes today`s Trio of Dresses.  If you`re ever in the market for some pretty dresses, you should definetly go check out the hundred dresses as A Dress A Day.  I know I`ve started a vintage pattern wish list!

Every Girl Needs a Cape

At least, I'm pretty sure I need a cape.  Welcome to A Coat Thing Part 2.   Today's coat, I'll admit, isn't technically a coat, but it definitely falls into that category.

Without further ado:

Coat Number 2:

New Look 6227

This pattern doesn't seem quiet as popular as Coat Number One from Friday.  I found one review on PatternReview.  However, just because it isn't popular doesn't mean it's not wonderful.  I mean really, go take a look at her View A.  That, is one gorgeous cape.

I'm a little torn between Views A and B.  But, like she said, do I really need more than one cape?  I could probably do View A in something lighter, light a trench-weight cotton and then View B in a mid-weight coating wool.  Then I have something for the warm days and the cool ones....

Still, not likely the most pressing thing I need for my wardrobe... but only if I'm thinking logically.  This might be the top of my list of Most Wanted Patterns right now...  (Dear Santa, ... )

A Coat Thing

Perhaps the weather turning cold has gotten to me (You can't prove I saw snow this morning.  I'll never admit it!  You can't make me!!), or perhaps its just that time of year, but I've been very fascinated by coat patterns of late.

I've picked two of my favorites.  Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be sewing any coats this season... its a little too late, and I'm not certain coats are the most pressing thing in my new wardrobe quest.  I'm not sure that this means I won't end up with a coat pattern or two in my stash though...

Coat Number 1:

Butterick 5824 by Gertie

I like Gertie.  She's not only profound in the vintage sewing scene, she's also hugely inspirational.  She's doing pretty close to what I want to be doing, sewing for a living.  (For me right now, that's still a pretty far off dream, but that's really not what we're looking at).

I also really like this coat.  The length is something you don't see as often any more.  It's nipped in a little at the waist and then flares out into a glorious swing skirt.  It's got a wide collar that I'm pretty sure could be snuggled into, though it does look like a scarf will be required, given the low V-neck.

My only hesitation, is the kimono sleeves.  They look good on the model, with her arms down.  But the review over at Edelweiss Patterns has a number of pictures that show some extra fabric there.  Which, is totally to be expected with kimono sleeves, but probably won't enhance my already-large bust.

The Options:  Attempt to draft a gusset.  Possible,  scary, and would definitely take a couple muslins before I could do it in any nice coating fabric.  Option Two:  Make it as a lighter Spring / Fall coat.  With a lighter fabric the bunching fabric will be less obvious.  Option Three:  Look for similar coats.  This is sad, because I'd really like to make Gertie's coat, however if I don't think it'll look good on me, it seems kind of like a waste.

And, since this has gone on for longer than expected, stay tuned next time for: Coat Number 2: The Cape!

Morality vs Legality

I'd like to prefix today's post by saying I'm not a lawyer.  I have no background in copyrite law (or any other type.), and that I've not done all of the research I'd like to do on this subject.

There seems to be some debate in the internet-sewing world as to the acceptable and legal use of store-bought patterns.  There are some people who firmly believe that any use of these patterns for anyone besides yourself, and especially for sale, is a violation of copyright.  And there is the opposite camp who is convinced that once you've bought the pattern you're free to make it for whoever you want, and charge whatever you want, from now until the end of time.  Naturally there are some camps in between: the Make-100-per-Pattern camp, and the Each-Customer-Buys-A-Copy camp, the With-Designer-Permission-Only camp.  There's probably almost as many versions of 'Acceptable Use' as there are people in the debate.  The argument that I find most interesting is that it is legal to sell things you make, but it is morally wrong.

I'm in the camp of if it is legal to do so, then there is no reason I shouldn't.  To start, don't confuse this with Because it is legal, it is not wrong.  That's a different debate.  What I'm saying is that as long as it is legal, I don't see why it would be morally wrong to sell something I make.

I think it is wrong (and illegal) to photocopy the pattern and sell that.  I think it's wrong to claim that the pattern is mine.  However, I believe it is my right to sell things which I make.  I am putting in my time, effort and knowledge.  There is skill involved in sewing, you can't just sit down one day and whip up a coat.  And I don't think I'm taking anything away from the pattern-maker by doing so.  People who are going to buy already sewn items are not as likely to buy a pattern.  And, when I'm selling things I've made it will involve posting pictures of items to the internet.  I would think, seeing well made items from a pattern would make other sewers more likely to buy the pattern.  I know I at least look around for some finished examples and pattern reviews before buying a pattern.

So, that's my view on the matter.  Don't sell someone else's pattern.  But if you want to make something to sell, store-bought patterns are free game.

P.S. Again, I haven't finished my research, and I'm not a lawyer.  I should not be quoted in a court of law.